Pranav and Ishita had just returned from their trek to Ladakh. I had originally promised to join them, but failed to keep my word later since the YHAI plan was irresistible given that I had lately developed a clear preference for the bike, even causing a relative neglect of 'La Poderosa', a Bullet Electra 350. Ishita had told that they saw several cyclists atop Khardung La over a single day, but there were no Indians cycling up on India's independence day, and that it would be cool if we did it later. That was not on the itinerary, but started looking like an inviting proposition once someone showed that it could be done. When Our jeep stopped for a tea break in Drasson the way from Shrinagar to our base camp in Leh, we bumped into the PCP (Pune Cycle Pratishthan) crew. These guys, with an average age of 45+ probably, were cycling from Leh to Shrinagar. It dawned upon me that they were soon going to take on the curves of the road to Lamayuru monastery atop a hill besides the Zanskar river, then scale Photu-La that casts a shadow there, and even the grand Zoji-La later. We dropped our jaws when they told that they even cycled to Khardung La, all 42 km and an elevation gain of 7100 ft. It was good news. If they can, our younger legs too can. It was humanly possible though the dramatic travelogues of this 'expedition' to the so-called 'world's highest motorable road' from fellow Bullet riders made it look mythical and monumental.
One evening after the day's ride, I shared my evil plan during the campfire with the bunch and tried to sell the idea of an extended group ride. It was quickly dismissed. When I reaffirmed after getting back to Leh from the biking route, the reactions ranged from warnings and concern to a rare encouragement. One school of thought said that while it was certainly doable, it was too big an elevation gain to consider with an acclimatization period of only a week and that too at a lowly 11000ft around Leh. :-) There was no need to take an undue risk since we lacked any external support and a medical emergency like high altitude sickness or pulmonary edema could be fatal. Had to revise the strategy, told everyone that I would attempt it but was not hell-bent on reaching the top at any cost, would not mind giving up the cause in case of the slightest discomfort. Savvy and Shri were confident on the other hand that I could do it, which was a reassuring boost. I asked myself why I was doing this, was it an ego trip? - 'Nope, because it is there', an inner voice echoed the famous words. :-)
My close friends Savvy, Captain and Dhwani - all Pune MTB chums, were accompanying me. While we looked forward to many more years of riding together as a close group, we were at crossroads as a team. Captain was planning to retire from long tours away from home and pursue more spritual interests, though we hoped that it would be only a sabbatical. Other threats loomed over the heads of us kids. Savvy was likely to travel out of India for a year or two.
Captain had to fly back from Leh earlier than planned, and our batch of 15 got fragmented into a few clusters, each having different plans for the remainder of the time. I chalked out the schedule and planned to see Ladakh by jeep for a couple of days, including trip to K-Top by Jeep to understand what the altitude felt like. Experiencing the grandeur a day before would imply that the element of novelty would be almost missing on the day of ride. Got to eyeball the route though and realized that the climb was often gradual and not as steep as others we had seen. However, it was relentless ad there was no respite. Savvy and Dhwani offered to provide support on the big ride day. Savvy conspired to hire a motorcycle and drive it up patiently while I would be crawling like an ant. I went to Tanzin cycles on 15th and signed to rent a Trek 8000 for a day. I ride a Hero Thunder MTB at home and used FireFox in MTB Himachal, YHAI route. To ride a mean machine from the legendary brand that even Lance uses sounded like great preparation. On the evening of 17th, I got it in my custody as soon as we got down to Leh market from the Jeep tour (no Bullet avail. for rent, sigh..) up & above. It was already dark when we finally pulled off a bargain deal for the rent of a rideable motorcycle. Managed to get to our abode Semnet hostel around 10 pm after dinner, and retired after waving to the owner's daughter Semnet - a chubby kid we had grown very fond of, who was now all over us 'uncles' after initial diffidence.
Turned out that one of the rooms we had rented was closed and locked. There was no one to complain to at that hour and we all had to snuggle up in one small room. Since Savvy is not very tolerant of bulbs burning past midnight, I offered to sleep on the cramped dusty sofa in the corridor - unhappily but not grudgingly. I was struggling to sleep due to excitement, restlessly checking my backpack for all the things to carry on the ride next morning. Checked that all the bling-bling including the GPS, toolkit, the glares, the papers and the energy food supplements were in place. This is usually quite an elaborate ritual. However, had to hurry since a good dose of shut eye was essential- as before any day-long endurance activity. Even tried a cold water bath and moved the bicycle indoors (upstairs actually) for safety, in my sight. Set the alarm clock to ring at 5AM and finally called it a night at 2AM.
Was up on time even before the alarm sounded a bell, and started the scheduled time of 6 after the chores, changing into full ride gear and chewing an apple. The support team sent me rolling and promised to be there on a motorcycle in a few hours with a helmet and refreshments. The climbing started immediately after stepping out of the hostel gate. Mounted the GPS and started recording the lap and duh! Somehow, the poor thing was almost completely discharged and had only enough juice to last an hour. Alas, it has an internal battery and no pluggable cells. It was a setback. Was pissed off at myself for this slip and at the prospect of losing the invaluable data of my historical ride. ;-)
You have to focus your mind while riding though, to breathe correctly and get a good rhythm. I reached the market riding conservatively and checked if Tanzip's shop was open to fetch a helmet which was essential IMHO even on a climb. The market was deserted though and I had to proceed. Almost lost my way near the base and had to go a kilometer extra as a result. Was at the base around 7- 7:30 and then the patient climb along the serpentine turns began. There was no one in sight for an hour and I kept pedaling incessantly, brushing aside worries of having joined an incorrect route, which would have been catastrophic. I was on the correct route though, and was going at a good pace before it got hot and blindingly bright to exaggerate a bit. Took my first break at 8:30 and kept circling with micro-breaks to ease the load on the back and stay adequately hydrated. Some vehicles finally emerged and overtook me. Dhwani and Saran joined around 10 when I was nearing South Pullu (Pole?). "Acchha mara re" (Whoa, good going), Dhwani exclaimed. We reached South Pullu (26 km from the base) at 10:30. The road ahead was not in a good condition. it hardly qualified a tar road. The climb gradient was slightly lower, but the altitude gain meant that the air would be thinner. It was only 13 kilometers to the top. I took a good long break to get my entry pass signed at the check-post and grab a brunch. While the bike felt just great during the test drive the previous day, something was wrong today. Was my mind rebelling and finding excuses to chicken out or justify the loss of speed? The going got tougher now and I was going at a snail's speed now, although my backpack was lighter, cortesy the support motorcycle. Realized that the front wheel was not moving freely and it needed a fix. I tried calling out to a couple of fellow riders for help but they polity declined to take a look and spoil their timing/ rhythm. Then one gentlemen stopped when I asked for help and asked me to turn the bike upside down and rest it properly. He adjusted the front wheel to decrase this reverse pull I was experiencing to a degree. Too lose could be dangerous, so I better get it tightened again after getting to the top, he explained and went on to show how to do it. His name was Charlie Schutter, and I will be ever grateful to him. It would have taken me forever without his help.
Having the landmark of India Gate in sight and approaching was comforting. We were almost there, and I turned on the GPS to catch the action. I could not hide that I was fatigued now and needed to take a short break with supplies of water, energy drink every few hundred meters. The partners in crime patiently waited and even took some stunning photographs when I crossed the 'India Gate' (Siachen Toggler Gate), and then arrived at the top plateau. I could not resist going to the plaque with the promotional sign controversially reading 'the world's highest motorable pass' there, and got a few photographs clicked with my friends. The immensely satisfying ride was impossible without their help.
Effectively, it took me 8 hours to cover the distance to K-top from the market. By the time we reached the top and celebrated with Maggi noodles and hot tea served by the Indian army men, some riders that passed me on the way up and also waved their byes as they flew down while I was still going up were probably dozing off in their hotel rooms. But what the heck, it was a day to cherish for a rookie cycling enthusiast.
My friends asked me later how it felt to 'conquer' or 'tame' Khardung-La. It was actually a humbling experience. The mountain tamed me by its bewitching beauty that has to be seen from a bicycle or foot. I was out to prove something to myself and to achieve something. Felt elated in the end but it did not feel like a 'man against nature' battle. It was an atheist's way to offer a prayer, to meditate for a day.
The journey back from the clouds to Leh was whirlwind. It took all of 40 minutes, with an average speed of above 40 km/hr despite a top speed of 60 km/hr only. :-)
When I returned the bike to Tanzin, he apologized for the mechanical snag and told me that I had a done a good job. An earlier batch of visitors we mutually knew reportedly took two days (and not one) to reach the top - the journey up to South Pullu on day 1 and the rest of it on day 2. He high fived saying I had surprised him and complimented on a job well done. I promised to return again soon and send him more clientele.
It was a very very special place to celebrate a special day by paying a tribute to an amazing athlete who has been a huge, huge inspiration. Lance Armstrong turns 37 today, viva Lance!
